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| HQ Belmont Utility |
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| josh1991 |
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| Group | : Members |
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| Joined | : Mar 16, 2008 |
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| Posted : 16 Mar 2008 19:07:23 | "Reply With Quote" |
| Just wondering how hard it is to remove rust from around the windshield of a HQ Belmont Utility, Am only 16 and dont have much experiance at removing rust, at least not from a car (have experiance with bikes and rust), if anyone has any advice for me, that would be great, thanks |
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| Posted : 17 Mar 2008 18:52:09 | "Reply With Quote" |
Hi Josh,
Remove the Windscreen:
To fix this properly you will need to remove the windscreen. There are two types of bonding kits used to fit a windscren, electric or air curing types. If the air-curing type is used you will have to be careful to ensure the doors are not slammed, do not drive the car with the air vents fully open and make sure the windows remain would up for at least 24 hours.
Removing the Windscreen
1. Remove the wiper arms and blades
2. Place protective covers over the bonnet, guards and scuttle panel
3. Apply masking tape to the adjacent panels around the windscreen moulding strips
4. Carefully disengage the moulding from each individual clip (using a suitable thin lever) and remove the moulding
5. Remove the masking tape
6. Remove the rear-vision mirror
7. Remove the garnish moulding retaining screws and remove the garnish mouldings
8. Carefully pull the front head lining finishing lace from the body lip
9. From inside the vehicle pierce the centre top section of sealant and insert one end of the length of piano wire (which should have been supplied when you purchased the windscreen curing kit) through the hole
10. Securely attach a suitable wqooden handle to each end of the wire
11. With the assistance of a friend, work the wire around the outside of the glass using a saw like motion to cut through the sealant
12. Keep your friend on hand to assist with lifting the windscreen from the vehicle.
13. Remove all the old sealant from the body flange and windscreen
14. When the body flange and the windscreen have been thoroughly cleaned, wipe the flange and the mating windscreen surface with a cloth dampened with an oil free cleaning solvent
Prep The Rusted Area
Use a 150 grit sanding wheel to begin creating a smooth surface. There will be a definite drop off point where the paint has been chipped away. You want to use the sanding wheel to level that surface so that you can't feel the difference between the painted surface and unpainted surfaces with your fingers. Try it with your eyes closed to see if you can really feel it or not. Use the sanding wheel to remove as much rust as possible, but don't get frustrated if it wont take it all away. The next step will take care of that.
The 150 grit wheel is good for preparing the area around the rust, but a metal grinding wheel is best for removing the actual rust itself. You need to be careful with this wheel because it can remove a lot of material quickly. Make sure you don't overdo it, and work very slowly. This is an important step because, aside from removing the last of the rust, the metal grinding wheel will smooth out any pock marks or pits that the rust has left in the sheet metal.
After you have removed as much rust as you safely can with the metal grinding wheel, then its time to move to hand sandpaper - around 150 grit. This is going to be used to remove any last stubborn rust spots and to perfect the transition that you created between the painted edge and the bare metal. Take your time and do a great job here. This is the step where you will make or break the quality of your finish.
If there are really deep pock marks left over from the rust that you just can't grind out without damaging the sheet metal, you can use body filler to fill the gaps, pits, and just about anything else. You will be able to find suitable products from Automotive stores such as Repco, Autobarn, Super Cheap etc. Follow the instructions carefully, the key to success here, as with the first steps, it to make sure that the final sanding passes are perfect.
Prime and Paint
Once you are completely satisfied with the surface preparation (and particularly the body flange), begin taping the area off. Go to a paint store and ask for some masking tape that will not leave a residue, or even go to a panel shop and tell them of the job at hand, they might be kind enough to provide you with some. Begin with a high quality auto body primer. The key is to apply very thin coats instead of trying to use one very think one. Paint builds its strength by being applied in layers. Apply three thin coats of primer, waiting about 10 minutes between each one. After the third coat has been applied, let it sit overnight so the primer can fully cure.
After the primer has been given a chance to completely dry, take a piece of 150 grit paper and very lightly hand sand the area. You are not trying to remove any paint, but are simply ensuring that the surface is smooth. Make sure you knock down any dust that may have accumulated in your primer coats while they dried.
The paint, just like the primer, should be applied in very thin coats. You should usually use three coats. If you are able to match the colour exactly, you may want to use more so the repaired area blends seamlessly. If you are not able to get a 100% color match, then a few coats should be sufficient, as you don't want the area to jump out visually. As with the primer, let it dry between coats - at least two hours between coats. Also check the instructions on the paint label as they often provide instructions on curing time. Allow the final coat of paint the chance to cure overnight.
Re-Fit The Windscreen (Air Curing Kit)
Try to do this when the temperatures are over 10C, which should not be a problem at the moment.
1. Have a final inspection of the body flange to ensure it is as perfect as you can get it
2. Position the two windscreen spacers (from the curing kit) on the bottom windscreen body flange so as to be at right angles to the windscreen
3. Again you will need a friend, have them help you lift the windscreen into position with the screen centrally into the body opening so that the lower edge rests against the two spacers
4. Apply a piece of masking tape over each side body pillar and the windscreen, slit the masking tape in line with the windscreen edge so that on installation, the windscreen can be lowered into its correct central position
5. With the aid of your friend, remove the windscreen and place it upside down on a clean padded surface
6. Wash the flange mating surface of the windscreen with water and wipe it dry
7. Apply a coat of paint primer to the body flange covering all the surface of the top and side section of the flange. Coat the bottom flange to a height of 0.88 inches with a neat line finish. The top of the sealer on the bottom section of the flange must be neat in appearance as it will be visible when looking through the windscreen
8. Remove and discard the backing material from the adhesive face of teh foam rubber seal
9. Apply the foam rubber seal evenly to the glass so that there is a gap of 0.187 inches between the seal and the edge of the windscreen
Note: The seal lip must face towards the outside of edges of teh windscreen. If the cleaned edges of the windscreen are touched by hand during installation of the foam rubber seal the are must be re-cleaned and dried
10. Install the nozzle to the tube of sealant (which both should be supplied with the kit) and place the assembly into a sealing gun
11. Apply a continuous bead of sealant to the windscreen between the edge of the windscreen and the foam rubber seal. The bead of sealant should be 0.38 in. high
12. With the aid of your friend instal the windscreen centrally into the body opening aligning the slits in the two pieces of masking tape
13. Press the windscreen firmly into the body opening until it iw within 0.12 and 0.18 in. of the flange and teh sealant is a MINIMUM width of 0.29 in.
14. Apply a gentle pressure of water to the windscreen and check for water leaks. Throoughly dry and add more sealant as necessary working the sealant into the leak area. (Make sure when testing for leaks you do not use a heavy stream of water!)
15. Thoroughly dry the area between the edge of the sealant and the moulding clips. Coat the flange area with a suitable rust inhibitor - after all this work you need the repairs to last. Remember too that the windscreen installation must be carried out as quickly as possible once the top has been taken off the tube of sealant
16. Place the windscreen mouldings into position and press the mouldings onto the clips
17. Install the finishing lace to the body lip
18. Place the garnish mouldings into position, install and tighten the retaining screws
19. Install the interior rear vision mirror
20. Wipe all finger prints fromt he windscreen and instal the wiper arms and blades
21. Wind down all the windows and allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours, if possible during this time do not drive the car
Good luck with the job, let us know if you decide instead to use an electric curing kit and we will provide additional instructions.
Cheers |
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