Due to the unprecedented number of requests we receive for help, we have launched a Classic Car Forum. By submitting your question to the Forum you will benefit from the input of our valued site visitors, and just like going to the Doctor, it always pays to get a second opinion.
Prior to sending a question to us, why not take a few moments to also post your question on our Forums. Over time, this will help build an invaluable resource for you and others to share. If you are considering placing a Free Classified, KT will explain how easy it is...
1977 HX Holden Rust, Care and Storage, from Martin
Q: Guys, I just bought a 1977 HX Deluxe Kingswood, in original condition inside and out. I would like to keep it in this condition and plan on garage storage for it.
There is no rust in the doors or body at all, the only rust is in the underside of the bonnet where it looks like a radiator hose may have blown and covered the underside of the bonnet in coolant? Questions are to do with the preservation of the car, is fish oil the best to keep the rust out of it and your thoughts on the treatment of the rust on the underside of the bonnet. Also the best source of getting paint matched. Any thoughts in general about the storage of cars? Thanks for your help, Martin.
A:
Hi Martin; In regards to the use of fish oil, yes this is widely regarded by many classic car enthusiasts as one of the best ways of keeping the dreaded metal cancer at bay. One of the best things about using fish oil is that you can apply it in any number of ways, such as using a brush, pouring it into the hard to get places, and even using a standard trigger-pack spray bottle. The fish oil will find its way into every cavity, and will stick like glue. We would suggest you go with the better known brands, such as Tectol or Fisholene.
As for the rust on the underside of the bonnet, there are several options you could take, and as they say on the Amazing Race, each with its "Pro's and Con's".
Option #1: Ideally you would have the bonnet completely re-sprayed by a pro, who would be able to best colour match; the downside is obviously the cost for having the work carried out.
Option #2: If you wanted to attempt it yourself, you could try using a product such as 3M's "Rust Avenger" or similar, these products are designed to act as a kind of catalyst, which would convert the underside of your bonnet into a hard inorganic surface which can be painted and sanded. Taking this approach would be very effective given the likelyhood you are only dealing with light surface rust. This would be cheaper than option #1, however you would need to be confident about your repainting skills prior to attempting it.
Option #3: The Prem's were fitted with extensive underbonnet sound proofing material, and the treatment of the rust prior to the application of a suitable sound-proofing material would make for the easiest and likely most cost effective way of dealing with the problem, while also helping to keep the noise down in the cabin. The downside is, however, that the Kingswood will not be strictly "stock", and would be judged as such should you later desire to enter the car in a concours or such.
Obviously storing your car in a garage is the best option, and we would suggest you invest in a cheap car cover to help keep the dust off it.
Ed.
Hector The Safety Cat, from Phil
Q: Guys, I have been singing the "Hector The Safety Cat" jingle to my kids for the last few years, as little safety information is targeted at kids these days, and I grew up with that jingle in my head. I want to show my kids the Hector song, any chance you have it? Thanks, Phil.
A:
Hi Phil; We are not sure we should have done this, as now the jingle is stuck in our heads too. We do, however, commend you for passing the safety message on to your children. Ed.
What To Do With A 1956 International Harvester Silver Diamond Engine, from Dane
Q: I have a Silver Diamond original motor from a 1956 AR110 Inter ute. I cant keep moving it round with me (and family!). Where would be the best place to advertise it for free? Do you think there would be much interest or head to scrap. Its been outside for a few years and covered lightly. Also, why can't I get much info about my AR110 Inter? Heaps of older folk come up and chat but not much on the web. Was it considered an American car even though built in SA? Thx so much for your help team. Dane.
A: Hi Dane; As for a great place to advertise your engine for free, have you checked the free Classic Car Classifieds on this site? We appreciate lugging the engine around would be difficult, however before you send it to scrap there are likely many interested IH enthusiasts in the US, and that is your best market for the engine. We would suggest you place a free classified here at Unique Cars and Parts, and include as many images as possible. Next, join some IH user groups and blogs to alert enthusiasts of your sale - remember many sites/blogs will be concerning IH tractors and trucks, but don't be dettered, as these people will likely have contacts! Shipping to the US is pretty cheap these days, and it is likely the Silver Diamond will find a good home.
Finding information on commercial vehicles of any era is difficult, and particularly of one shipped to Australia in CKD (or partial knock down form) during the 1950's.
We would consider any car/ute/commercial vehicle originating from the US (whether fitted with an Aussie body or not) to be a US vehicle, an opinion hopefully agreed with the old timers you are speaking to. Ed.
Leyland Mini Convertible Conversion, from Adam
Q: Hi, I have a 1974 Leyland Mini and was wondering if it was possible to turn it into a convertible? If so would you have a rough idea of how much it would cost? Thanks, Adam.
A: Hi Adam; While some people take to their classic with a tin-opener and perform a "convertible" conversion, we have seen many conversions end in tradgedy, they looking ill conceived and ultimately being difficult to re-sell. There have been a few which we think worked well, and as the saying goes fortune favours the brave. You didn't ask for an opinion, but we'll give it anyway; keep the Mini as is, and buy a Moke for Summer fun. Both will continue to appreciate in value, and this option would represent little risk as compared to a convertible conversion. Ed.
190SL Production figures, from John
Q: Hi, I have a 1960 Mercedes 190SL and are trying to determine how many were made? Thanks, John.
A:
Hi John; 25,881 in total, and 3,977 in 1960. This information is available from the 190SL Specifications page. Ed.
XY GS Ute Valutation, from Matt
Q: Im looking to sell my XY GS Ute. Its an original from factory with all the GT Options. Its in pristine condition and I'm trying to determine a fair price. I am getting loads of different answers from dealers, and are finding it hard to establish the correct price. I have always been lead to believe that there was only 33 of these made. Is this correct? Thanks, Matt.
A: Hi Matt; You have a rare beast indeed, however exactly how many XY utilities were manufactured with the "GS" option pack we have no information on. When you say all GT options, does this include running gear, interior etc., and if so were these factory fitted? If the answer is yes, then you have a very valuable car - and if it really is in pristine condition as you describe, then "we" would value it at anywhere between $95 - $120K (and deduct around $30K if these were not factory fitted).
However as with any classic car sale, and particularly when it comes to Aussie muscle cars, the value can be extremely difficult to determine. Obviously cars that are "genuine" these days not only command a premium, but are turning out to be better investments than even the traditional bricks and mortar. Then there are the "copies", and even these are appreciating beyond what we thought possible even only a few years ago.
Our advice would be, if possible, keep it. If you do need to sell it, start high and slowly move your price down. In any event, to get the real value of a genuine XY ute with GT options, you would need documentation to prove such, and we would highly recommend you follow up with Ford. Ed.
Car Condition Valutation Guide, from John
Q: On your web site you have the value of cars as condition 1, 2 or 3. Can you please tell me what each of the conditions entail?
A: Hi John; If you go to the starting page of the classic car price guide from the menu, you will find an explanation on each of the conditions. Ed.
Annual ToranaFest Contribution, from Peter Morris, Treasurer, Hunter Valley Torana Club
Q: Hi, I am from the Hunter Valley Torana Club. We are holding our annual "Toranafest" show on the 16th of September and was wondering if you guys would like to help in any way possible? We raise money for Ronald McDonald House on the day. We would like our DJ to be able to play some of the old radio ads on the day as this would rekindle a lot of great memories for our entrants and huge spectator numbers. Entrants come from as far as North Queensland and Victoria.
Any help would be appreciated. We aim to have at least 120 cars as well as have a time line to celebrate 40 years of Torana. Shannons Insurance have come on board this year as we make our show bigger and more entertaining each year. All of us at the club just love the site - please keep up the good work. PS: Is it OK to mention your website in our Toranatorque Magazine? Regards Pete Morris Treasurer/ Hunter Valley Torana Club.
A: Hi Pete; Make sure you send us all the information on the ToranaFest so that we can help publicise it in our Classic Car Events Calendar. Our own Jim Andersen, radio personality from the 1970's and 1980's (who worked at stations such as 2AY, 5AD and 3MP) will lend a hand to compile a radio broadcast on the history of Holden, including of course the Torana - let us know if MP3 format is ok, or if you require standard CD format.
We are sure your event will be another great success, and if you manage to take some images on the day please send them to us for publication in our Car Shows section. As for mentioning the website in the Toranatorque Magazine, we would be honoured. Ed.
Interior Trim on Brougham, from Phillip
Q: I am doing up a Brougham, straight and no rust but well worn. Interior has been re-upholstered at some stage, can you advise if the interior should be leather? Phillip.
A: Hi Phillip; Firstly, congratulations on having a Brougham! As for the interior, it was a rather complex "Brocade" material used, which we think may be hard to find these days. We would suggest you seek the advice of a competent classic car upholsterer in your state, and don't opt for the easiest option.
When restoring a car, taking the hard road always pays the biggest dividends - get it as close as possible to the original, and always seek help from a Holden car club. Apart from that, the best help we can offer is to add an image of the Brougham interior to the Brougham Car Review Page. Good luck with your project, done well the Brougham will be a delight to drive, and a worthwhile investment. Ed.
Another Ford/Holden Propoganda Site, from Stef
Q: This site is a blatant Ford/Holden propoganda site. No mention of Mitsubishi, nor much about any Jap cars. Get with it, the enthusiast of today will only drive a turbo Jap car if they have any sense. Stef.
A: Hi Stef; We are constantly adding content to the site, based on what most people are looking for information on. We do have information on Mitsubishsi (they are listed in the car review pages) and also have them in the "Classic Car Commercials" section, although only selectable from the drop down menu (Click here to take a short cut). That said, we doubt any Mitsubishi will be worth $630,000 in 30 years time, and we make no apologies for featuring the Aussie metal. Ed.
How To Help An EBII V8 Falcon Breathe, from Mark
Q: Dissapointing you guys have left out the specs on the first Torana, the HB. Anonymous.
Q: Hi Guys, I Have Some Info on the EA-EF Model Falcons. All Models were limited to a top speed of 180 km/h and there were the following numbers built:
A: Hi Callum, thanks for the information, the pages have been updated. Ed.
HT Premier fitted with 186S, from Judy
Q: Team, I have found a really good HT Premier which I would like to buy, but I don't think it is original. The car is fitted with a 186 "S" engine, which I belive comes from the Monaro. I don't mind that the engine has been swapped, but would like to know whether I should change it to keep it original. Thanks for any advice, Judy.
A: Hi Judy; As you may have noted in the HT Holden Specifications page under "Engine Combinations", the 186S was definately an option, although this is no guarantee that the engine you have has not been replaced at some point during the cars life. The following excerpt is from marketing materials published by Holden at the time of the HT's release, and should hopefully set your mind at rest on the issue. We are compiling a complete HT model lineup page and will let you know when it is published. Ed.
Premier:
...The luxury starts with the way the car looks. The essence of luxury in a car should be instantly apparent; Premier does it with strong simple styling. The strong flowing lines of the Holden Kingswood continue in Premier with the addition of a special rear roofline to give extra headroom in the back seat. The differences are underrlined by discreet badges and line trim, and a special grille. Other distinctions are the exclusive metallic colours and the four headlights.
Interior:
The interior is completely trimmed; about the only bright metal you see are the chromed seatbelt fittings. There's safety padding all around, only a part of the safety that's built in, and everything is colourkeyed; control knobs, head lining, steering wheel. The seats are soft, and it's not feather-mattress softness, but a careful combination of strong springs, deep foam rubber, and resilient upholstery. Ride Bumps are soaked up and smoothed down by new rubber bushings in the suspension front and rear; and the road springs aretuned to give handling without harshness. A by-product of this attention to ride is a big loud silence. Rubber bushes soak up road noise and thumps; bold use of sound absorbent material mops up engine and wind noise; and a new rubber-cushioned Y-cradle for the engines damps out vibration most effectively.
Engines:
The standard engine in the Premier is also a step up. It's the six cylinder '186', a well-proved and highly reliable unit which smoothly and quietly winds out an economical 130 horsepower for years. For people who need more muscle under their foot there are three alternatives; the 145 hp '186S', the new 185 hp '253' economy V8, which has turned out to be a winner, and its big brother '308' with 240 hp.
Transmissions:
Transmissions gearshifts are suit yourself. Standard is a new all-synchromesh three-on-the-column. But the options are four-on-the floor, or Powerglide automatic on the column or the floor. With floor shifts, you get a floor console with an oddment compartment and sundries tray.
Custom Features:
The range of custom features is wide enough to let anyone suit himself. They range from power windows to air-conditioning, rally wheels to power radio antenna. Among the major ones are a rich Castillon Weave upholstery for the seats, all transistor radios, tinted windscreens, load levelling shock absorbers, power steeri ng and brakes, special instruments, and black or light-saddle vinyl roof. If you want a car that says what you are, and gives you driving pleasure as well, the Holden Premier comes first.
Specifications:
Engine: 186 6-cylinder.
Bore and stroke 3.625 x 3.00 in.
Capacity 186 ci
Max hp: 130 at 4,400 rpm.
Max torque: 181 Ibs. ft. at 2,000 rpm.
Compression ratio 9.2:1.
RAC rating 31.54 hp.
Optional Engines:
'186S' 6-cylinder engine with 154 hp at 4,600 rpm.
'253' V8 8-cylinder with 185 hp at 4,440 rpm.
'308' V8 8-cylinder with 240 hp.
Transmission:
Manual- standard in Premier with 3-speed column shift with full synchromesh.
Optional Transmissions:
4-speed manual in floor console (with synchromesh) Powerglide automatic with either column or floor shift.
Brakes:
4 wheel hydraulic, duo servo with dual master cylinder feeding separate hydraulic systems for front and rear brakes.
Total effective lining area is 135.24 sq. ins.
Power brakes and power-assisted front disc brakes are optional.
Steering:
Energy-absorbing steering column and shaft.
Recirculating ball steering gears, life lubricated.
Ratio 20.0:1.
Turning circle: 36.5 ft.
Optional power steering with 16.7:1 fast ratio steering gear.
Wheels and tyres:
Short-spoke disc wheels with double-sided safety rims
Size-14" x 5.00JJ
Optional 6.00JJ rally wheels (only with radial or D70 tyres).
Tyres: Tubeless 6.95 x 14 x 4 ply low profile tyre.
Optional tyres include whitewalls and redband, radial and premium.
Dimensions:
Wheelbase 111.0"
Track front and rear 58.12"
Overall height 55.6"
Overall length 184.8"
Overall width 71.8"
Min. ground clearance 7.3"
Approx. weight 2,872 lbs. (add 95 lbs. for V8).
A Fast Sale - And Word Of Thanks, from Neil
Q: Hi Guys, I have just received electronic payment for a car I had advertised on your site. I am amazed at the amount of enquiries I received, and that the car was sold to a purchaser in Perth! (I am in Melbourne). I am really so happy with the service, and it is amazing that it is free. The proceeds are being put toward a new project, and I thought I owed you guys a word of thanks. Neil.
A: Hi Neil; We are glad to have helped. Ed.
ABS on a Renault 16TS, from Ray
Q: Guys, I have been told by a friend that the Renault 16TS had a primitive form of ABS. Can you advise if this is true? Also, what does TS stand for? Ray.
A: Hi Ray; The Renault 16 was pretty advanced for the time, but no it didn't come with ABS. Where your friend is probably getting confused is with the hydraulic control and pressure equaliser, which monitored the load on the rear suspension, and stopped the rear "Drum" brakes from locking up (the 16 was fitted with disc brakes up front). In many regards the Renault 16 was way ahead of its time, as few cars dating back to 1969 were quite so innovative. The 16 boasted all-round fully independent suspension, and anti-roll bars, at the front using flexible quadrilateral transverse members, while the rear wheels were supported by pressed steel suspension arms. 2 months after the 16's release, it took out the International Car Of The Year award, no doubt the advanced suspension and braking system going a long way to helping it take out the title. As for "TS", that stands for Tourisme Sport. Ed.
HX Statesman DeVille Restoration, from Todd
Q: I currently own a HX Statesman DeVille and it needs restoration. I was wondering if you had some original pictures, so I can get it back to orignal. Including badge aligning, interior and anything else you have. Would also apprciate any pictures of HX Statesman Caprice, and VL Calais as I know people restorting them as well. Thanks, Todd.
Q: I really enjoyed looking through your brochure gallery, however the PDF gallery was too slow on my dial up. Also, there was no mention of the XD Falcon - do you guys have it? Jim.
A: Hi Jim; We can help you out with the XD Falcon brochure. Please let us know what you think of this new format for presenting the old classic car brochures, we think it makes navigating to a specific page with the required information much easier and quicker, rather than downloading the entire brochure. On the down side, you cannot zoom in on the text. We look forward to receiving your feedback. Ed.
EB Falcon Performance Mods, from Steve
Q: Hi guys, I have a 1993 EB Falcon that I Have just had converted to LPG. The head has just been redone along with some major work on the transmission - all are running sweetly. I would like to customize my car a little (just because I love it). I was wondering if a slightly lumpier cam and some extractors with a larger exhaust would cause any hassles seeing as it is on gas? Can you suggest some other mods that would beef the motor up a little without losing reliability? It is a 6 cylinder MP EFI. Also, if I choose to put a bonnet scoop in, are there any airflow issues that I need to be concerned with? Thanks heaps for your help.
Hi Steve; Yes an upgraded camshaft and extractors would be beneficial, however performing some cylinder head work would allow the engine to flow/breathe better and would make better use of the intended camshaft & extractor upgrade. Regarding the bonnet scoop, this should not cause any airflow issues, only legality issues with the boys in blue. Our best advice here is to go without where you can and only if you need to, play it sensible. Ed.
The First Corolla Sold In Lantana, Florida, from Lynn
Q: This being the anniversary of the introduction of the Toyota Corolla I thought you may like to know that I have the first 1968 Corolla sold in Lantana, Fla. My father-in-law bought it and has kept it in exellent condition. I have a picture taken of my inlaws with it last Feb. Lynn
A: That sounds like it would make a great story, particularly if you have photo's of the car over the years. We would love to publish your story if you feel inclined to send us one. Ed
JE Camira Headlight Problem, from James
Q: I own not one but two JE Camiras, a 1987 and a 1988 model. The 1987 model has a brake booster problem but otherwise it is a fantastic car, but it's the other one, the 1988 model, that I am having the problem with. I have high beam and parker lights, but no low beam lights! I have checked all the fuses, all the relays, and all the wires and still there has been no improvement. Is there anything else you guys can suggest? James
A: Hi James; You didn't mention the bulbs themselves, however we will assume these have been checked also. If so, we would think the headlight switch itself could be suspect. If you scroll down to the answer provided to Andre who was experiencing problems with his WB Ute, you will see we have provided details on how to create a small test lamp so that you can check the switch is operating correctly. Our money is on it being a faulty switch. Ed
JD Camira Electrical Problems, from Darryl
Q: My mum has a 1985 JD Camira EFI which just stopped 2kms down the road yesterday morning . It appears to have no spark. It had a problem with the thermo fan the day before so I looped the wires so that the fan would come on with the ignition. Could it be the computer or some other problem? Darryl
A: Hi Darryl; We would be unable to diagnose this issue via email, but it sounds as though the re-wiring has played a part. In any case, an auto electrician will be needed to trace the problem. Ed
Help Find A Hatch Hutch, from Samara
Q: Hi there, I am hoping you can help, I would like to get my step Dad a Hatch Hutch for his Torana and have no idea where to begin. Is there anyone making them? Does not have to be original. Would you be able to point me in the right direction? I have tried ebay etc. Any help welcome. Thank you, Samara
A: Hi Samara; Obviously your step-father is lucky enough to own an LX hatch. Going back in time, the hatch hutch was not a popular accessory, even though it retailed for only $65. The truth was the hatch hutch gave the Torana near panel-van accomodation for the occasional sleep-over, and a Torana Hatch was a far better proposition as a daily drive than a Panel Van. In the end the Hatch Hutch ended up gathering dust on dealers shelves, they remaining available until around 1985. We can only suggest you try some of the Torana car clubs around the country - they still have a very loyal following and they may be able to help out. Ed.
